GastroChick Off Duty
Wednesday April 05th 2006, 11:50 am
Filed under: Food in London, Recipes

Provence After reading Chubby Hubby’s post a while back I was inspired to order ‘Off Duty - the world’s greatest chefs cook at home.’ Not only were the proceeds going to a worthwhile cause, The Nicholls Spinal Injury Foundation, it also boasted an impressive line up of international chefs, 48 in total, who are widely credited as the best in the world. To name all of them would be a laborious task but notable examples, from this country (UK), included: Gary Rhodes, Jamie Oliver, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers.

It has proved to be excellent bedtime reading. The interviews conducted with each one are insightful and sometimes rather amusing; Heston Blumenthal sights butterscotch Angel Delight as one of his top ten ingredients, Thomas Keller votes sushi his favourite food, Giorgio Locatelli claims he never eats junk food, and most of them rightly concur that great quality, fresh ingredients form the basis for successful cooking.

The truly interesting aspect of the book however is the chef’s menu selection, which gives the reader a glimpse into what the world’s greats whiz up in the confines of their own kitchens. I particularly enjoyed Angela Hartnett’s offering comprising; pumpkin tortelli with amaretti biscuits, followed by braised halibut on red and yellow pepper confit, then roasted figs in red wine with zabaglione for pudding. Her formidable boss, Gordon Ramsay offered a delectable menu of; warm salad of smoked eel and new potatoes with horseradish cream, calf’s liver with sweet and sour mushroom and rocket marmalade, finished off with coffee panna cotta. Delicious.

Rick Stein’s recipe for marinated tuna with passion fruit, lime and coriander also caught my eye and served as the inspiration for last night’s supper. Whilst this was not strictly speaking a sashimi recipe (the tuna is partially cooked by the lime) it still required the freshest fish one could find, anything remotely smelly would have left you gagging. Bearing this in mind I headed for my nearest fishmonger, Steve Hatt, renowned for it’s excellence and friendly staff. I spied a ruby red tuna loin gave it a cautionary sniff and declared it perfect for the job. Next door, at the greengrocers, I grabbed the remaining ingredients and rushed home to see if I could recreate the dish.

Originally I was going to photograph my attempt but my slicing of the tuna left a lot to be desired and didn’t truly resemble the original. The sauce however was easy to prepare. The pomegranate – fruity and aromatic, counterbalanced the meatiness of the tuna. The end result, whilst not the prettiest, tasted magnificent.

I urge everyone to go out and buy this excellent book.

Marinated Tuna with Passion Fruit, Lime and Coriander – Rick Stein

3cm thick piece of tuna loin fillet – 400g
2 small ripe and wrinkly passion fruit
1 tablespoon lime juice
3 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 medium hot green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
5 turns of the black pepper mill

Put the piece of tuna on a board and cut it across into very thin slices. Lay the slices, side by side but butted close up together, on four 25 cm plates. Cover each one with cling film and set aside in the fridge for at least an hour or until ready to serve.

Shortly before serving make the dressing. Cut the passion fruit in half and scoop the pulp into a sieve set over a bowl. Rub the pulp through the sieve to extract the juice, then discard the seeds. There should be about 1 tablespoon of juice. Stir in the lime juice, sunflower oil, green chilli, sugar, coriander, salt and pepper.

To serve, uncover the tuna, spoon over the dressing and spread it over the fish with the back of the spoon. Leave for 10 minutes before serving.



GastroChick Steak - Smiths
Tuesday April 04th 2006, 11:17 am
Filed under: Food in London

Provence I must admit I am a self-confessed meat eater. A couple of months ago my good friend and fellow neurotic, Andrew, who incidentally has an almost encyclopaedic knowledge about food introduced me to the wonders of the Porterhouse steak or T-bone as they are more commonly known – one side sirloin (full of flavour) and the other fillet (tender and delicate). He stressed the importance of the maturity of the meat that ideally should be at least 3 weeks hung and also salting it up to 8 hours before cooking so that the meat is thoroughly infused. His cooking method couldn’t be more simple – flash-fried in butter for no longer than 4 minutes (depending on thickness), in a non stick pan, not a griddle, and then left to rest for 8 minutes on a hot plate in order to retain the juices. His steaks surpassed anything which had graced my lips in the past – tender, succulent and with a sashimi - like consistency.

It goes without saying that the origin of the beast is also vitally important, organic is certainly preferable, if not mandatory and if you want specifics the meat at Northfield farm to be found at Borough Market is sublime. Employ a keen eye when your butcher carves, it should be a nice thick cut of at least one and half inches. This should serve two people.

Thanks to Andrew I have become hooked and need to indulge my meat fetish at least once a week. As stated before I usually pick the goods up from Borough Market however this week neither my husband nor myself felt like going and instead had to fulfil our carnal desires in another way. As luck would have it my brother’s birthday would provide the perfect opportunity. My parents had organised a soiree down the road at Smiths (the top floor), an establishment overseen by John Torode of MasterChef fame, renowned for sourcing the best quality, organic, rare beef. Alongside the A La Carte menu a selection of fine meats is also offered, one can choose between chateaubriand, fillet, sirloin or rump. I opted for the last – a longhorn rump, aged 26 days. Before that I started with scallops and artichoke puree which although nice was miniscule in size and failed to deliver anything deeply satisfying.

My hopes therefore rested with my steak, which alas were dashed upon arrival. Without even tasting the specimen before me I could tell that it was not going to live up to my now exacting standards. Instead of a nice thick cut, it was thin and morose looking. One slice into it confirmed that it was not rare, my stated choice, instead it veered towards medium. The depth of flavour I had hoped for was also lacking despite being cooked with a thick slab of fat that clung to its sides. Excellent side dishes of red cabbage and thick cut chips partially helped to ease my disappointment.

However it was not until dessert, not usually a course I am that excited by, that lifted the overall experience out of the doldrums. We all opted for the apple soufflé and were united in our effusive opinions on it. The apple offered a subtle accent to the fluffy texture of the soufflé, which was also accompanied with a wonderful honeycomb ice-cream.

I have eaten at Smiths a number of times both downstairs and also in the fine-dining option, on the top floor. Whilst it has never blown me away I have always enjoyed the fabulous views and warm service. Despite a rather disappointing meal this time it would not deter me from returning, although I will be sure to get my meat fix elsewhere.