Kei’s Passion - Nice
Filed under: Food in France
After some truffle induced nightmares (just kidding will stop with the truffles now I promise!) we venture into the old city of nice through the winding backstreets which apparently are still inhabited by nicoise residents. Along the way we spy a wonderful chocolatier as well as a whole shop devoted solely to olive oil. The cours saleya is home to the flower and vegetable market, its a shame that we do not have access to a kitchen because with such great ingredients one could cook up a feast!!
We discuss various possiblities for the evening’s meal. After a while an interesting proposition reveals itself, a restaurant set up by a young japanese chef, Keisuke Matsushima attempting to merge Japanese with Meditteranean. This has been done before by Michel Bras, so successfully that he has been awarded 3 Michelin stars for his famous restaurant in the Midi pyrenees.
With an impressive background training under the Pourcel twins ( the young brothers who own a 3 star michelin restaurant) could Matsushima be the next Bras? we would soon find out.
In an unimposing retail premises tucked away in the newer part of Nice we arrive at Kei’s Passion . The dining room is tiny but every table is occupied and there is a palpable buzz and energy. Whilst the decor is simple, the service is not. The two young brothers who man the operation dart from table to table clearly relishing in explaining the chef’s food and philosophy, they appear to be really behind Matsushima, who makes brief appearances from the kitchen greeting the patrons with his mass of peroxide blond hair.
It is clear that this restaurant has high expectations and is seriously angling for its first Michelin star. I am not going to go into immense detail over this meal other than to comment on the most salient factors. Firstly, it’s sometimes is a little bit gimmicky, a plate of amuse bouches contained almost surgical pipettes to administer a hit of cassis, which was unecessary as well as a little irritating when spurting out all over my top!! A dish of risotto and asian greens was technically very good. The main of pigeon was great, gamey but succulent a tricky combination and one that most chef’s fail to master.
Matsushima is a very promising young chef. The meal did not borrow as much as I had thought or hoped from Japanese cuisine yet there were subtle clues towards the chef’s asian background. I wish this restaurant all the best.
Bon Nuit!
Kei’s Passion
22 ter rue de France
Place Croix de Marbre
Nice
04-93-82-26-06
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