Isarn - London

The remarkable thing about Upper Street is that while every other retail space is occupied by a restaurant, there is never anywhere to eat.

Every type of cuisine from Turkish to Italian is accessible, yet there is not one that compels me to return on a regular basis. I’ve digested good even great food at a number of them, but something is always a little off, the decor, the service, the ambience, often I can’t even put my finger on it. The outcome depressingly remains the same, I don’t return.

So when Alan Yau’s sister, Tina Juengsoongneum, co-opened ‘Isarn’ a Thai restaurant bang in the middle of the offending street my hopes rise. Alan Yau notably brought us Wagamama, Busaba Eathai, the magnificent Hakkasan and most recently the fabulous dim sum restaurant, Yauatcha. So naturally it is somewhat unfairly posited, that his flair and genius might be genetically linked with his sister. Some broadsheet food critics have also delivered ‘Isarn’ nothing short of glowing reviews. Everything therefore conspired to suggest that this venture would fulfil all the necessary criteria to become that elusive local restaurant I was so desperately searching for.

First impressions were good. An awkward room had been sensitively addressed with excellent lighting, and an interesting treatment of ceiling space which was erected like an overhead canopy. The predominately white room did not possess any hint of sterility thanks to the seductive ebony wood accented in the chairs, tables and wood panelling.

The menu is fairly simple, offering all the predictable Thai classics. We ordered starters of steamed coconut and prawn dumplings which reached our table cold, rendering them claggy and doughy. A satay dish failed to impress, the chicken was bashed down too thinly and strangely overly marinated. Any taste of cumin or coriander was drowned out in the sauce by the dominance of the peanuts. The duck in edible betel leafs was the only real winner, crispy and well matched with a pomegranate-like fruit.

A green chicken curry, whilst beautifully presented, lacked any guts to it yet packed an aggressively spicy punch. It was flavourless and bland which is quite an achievement when one considers the core ingredients of lemon grass and coriander are usually so fragrant and distinctive. A cloyingly overly sweet, yet under sour, deep fried red snapper was a couple of seconds overcooked. The humble dish of morning glory, stir fried asian greens with garlic, oyster sauce and soybean paste shone in its redolent simplicity.

A lotus paste desert, sparked my curiosity. A light green jelly with an overlay of coconut milk was interesting and definitely worth a try, for the sheer novelty factor if nothing else.

Though the food failed to deliver on a number of levels there was something appealing about this restaurant. It stands out for posessing a degree of professionalism and thought regarding the finer details. The predominantly Thai waitresses were competent and charming, and also knowledgeable about the food. The fashionable venue had also attracted a crowd not necessarily associated with Upper Street. Definately a good thing.

However, the fundamental question remains, will I return and the answer is sadly no. For £60 for two, without wine, there are so many other restaurants I would rather give my money to.

My quest continues.

Isarn
119 Upper Street, London, N1 1QP
+44 (0) 20 7424 5153

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