Mugaritz - San Sebastian
Filed under: Food in Spain
Should a meal be a cerebral activity, an exercise in mental dexterity and one that challenges and confronts. Or should its main purpose be in bringing pleasure to the diner by offering excellent service, flawlessly cooked food encompassing familiar tastes and flavours, enjoyed in a comfortable, salubrious setting?
Because I had not yet been jolted out of my culinary comfort zone I didn’t feel that I was in the position to make a valued judgement. This was not for lack of trying. For years I had failed to execute the necessary traits of patience and perseverance to secure a table at the two bastions of cutting edge cuisine - El Bulli and The Fat Duck. As a consequence I knew that I would have to widen my search and this led me to Mugaritz. From all the reviews, forum discussions and word of mouth recommendations it seemed a natural choice. The credentials of the chef, Adoni Aduriz, appeared ideally suited to what I was looking for - he has been hailed as a culinary wizard who takes a scientific approach to cooking (a protegee of Ferran Adria). Aduriz even went so far as doing a two year stint at a liver research clinic so that he could better understand the complex workings and composition of this organ. He later applied these principles to foie gras and has been consequently hailed as the “foie gras king”.
Mugaritz is situated in the outskirts of San Sebastian a 30 minute drive from the centre, past some rather depressing housing projects and up a winding hill. Nothing strikes you as unusual when you first enter the space, with its high ceilings and rustic yet contemporary decor. However when the door slams menacingly behind you and the chairs let out an angry screech when you take your seat an eerie mood envelopes, one that is strangely unsettling. A fork hanging from a noose in the centre of the table and a series of place cards with the words “150 minutes…to submit” and “150 minutes…to rebel” further testify that this is going to be no ordinary experience. From a trip to the ladies I also notice the strange inclusion of toothbrushes, am I supposed to brush my teeth between courses?
Despite these unusual touches the wait staff immediately put us at ease with their gracious and friendly manner. We collectively decide on the longer tasting menu out of the two and wait in anticipation for the theatre to begin.
Unlike Arzak’s exuberant amuses bouches, Adoni sends out a succession which have a more serious and restrained character. Subtlety of taste is exemplified in a silky garlic consommé which elicits positive comments all round. The first course continues the minimalist theme - a simple salad composed of lovage leafs, parsley puree, with some white truffles shavings. Sublime.
However just as an air of relaxed informality descends on our table we are confronted with a Japanese delicacy- sea urchin gonads covered in a soy lactose infused with ginger. Unlike the previous nights fish offal offering, Monkfish liver, which is integrated into the dish in a familiar way, the gonads covered in a milky slime possess an alien texture. It is not a truly unpleasant taste due to the predominance of ginger which masks a lot of the ingredients, however I wouldn’t want seconds.
Crushed potatoes, broken eggs and vegetable coal dressed with a garlic protein follows and proves to be an interesting expression on a traditional combination. Spanish chefs seem to be notoriously good with eggs and these were no exception - runny yolks and firm hard whites. The truffle infused potatoes are glossy and moreish. The vegetable coal is also surprisingly edible - rich, dark and musky, yet there was no discernible taste which revealed its original source. It left me pondering what I had just put in my mouth.
Two exceptionally flavourless fish dishes arrived hereafter. The first being Sea Scallops with amaranth in a clay sauce. The clay, as you would imagine had a non descript, claggy texture and also had the undesirable effect of sticking to the roof of your mouth. At least it was now clear why the toothbrushes may have come in handy. An equally disappointing dish of hake (a substitute for the rouget) was bland and dull, even with the saffron infusion. It prompted one of the diners to question the use of such a cheap fish, one which is cheap for good reason - its not very good.
The Escalope of foie gras helped to partially restore my faith in the kitchen. It was the most eagerly anticipated dish of the evening and exceeded all expectations. Adoni’s knowledge rendered this usually rich, fatty organ into a feather light,spongy one whilst still managing to retain its decadent glorious character. It is the best preparation of foie gras I have ever tasted.
It was the following course however, which I took issue with. I’m not at all squeamish, I’ll put almost anything in my gob providing it tastes good, yet the next dish truly stumped me - lamb’s trotter braised in a salted toffee of lactose and fresh cream and a ragu of beets. Incidentally the idea of the trotter did not actually offend or repel, however the first taste did, which was gloopy, gelatinous and strangely flavourless. It provoked an even stronger reaction amongst my fellow diners who put their cutlery down in unison and pronounced it inedible. I ploughed through hoping that I would discover some hidden meaning lurking behind its sinewy mass, is the chef trying to tell us something, is he fucking with us? Maybe he knows that most people will send it back relatively untouched, is this what he wants? We toy with all these possibilities when trying to understand the intentions behind this seriously vile concoction.
Our thoughts were interrupted by a plate of well selected and balanced cheeses accompanied by a pretty side dish of condiments. Thus affording a brief moment of respite before the onslaught of deserts. A pistachio cake with an ice thawing, a kind of frothy melting snowball. The taste is subtle and delicate and is shortly followed by the second desert - grounds of espresso coffee upon chilled cocoa juice, chicory cream with farmhouse natural milk skin. Both deserts possess a lightness and simplicity to them which is a refreshing change from the usual offerings heavily reliant on cream and sugar.
Whilst you might not relish every single dish that Adoni creates his food has a real poetry to it, which is at times unsettling, at times unpalatable, at times enjoyable and sometimes all three. I wrongly assumed that because he trained under Ferran Adria he would be producing culinary fireworks - exploding deserts, flamboyant platings, dreamt up in a science lab. Instead his dishes have a refined and pure sensibility to them which is so Zen-like it verges on the pretentious. The flavours are sometimes overly subtle to the point of nothing going on, in particular the fish and seafood courses, however I can decipher the integral point he is trying to make; which is the purity of ingredients, untainted by over saucing and seasoning.
Mugaritz did transport me out of my comfort zone and perhaps not in the way that I had anticipated. However, whilst it made me contemplate different flavors, tastes and textures I found the experience ultimately lacking. The philosophy and thought process behind his creations are intriguing yet the food itself is underwhelming. This leads me back to the original question; the cerebral versus the enjoyable. Of course, for a meal to be truly great it must have elements of both.
104 Comments so far
Leave a comment
For all the people who swear by Mugaritz I was interested to find that on a Saturday night half the dining room was empty, try getting a table at the fat duck, Arzak or Gordon Ramsay’s on a Saturday night at short notice. It’s all very well people proclaiming how great Mugaritz is but when people have to vote with there wallets there vote is clear and it’s not a positive one.
Comment by andrew 03.05.06 @ 8:37 pmRegarding the Hake, I can understand that you don’t like it, but defining it as a “cheap fish, one which is cheap for good reason” is not knowing anything about it. It is the most beloved fish by the spaniards (with or without reason)and I can assure you that it is not cheap at all.
Anyway, it is a very good restaurant review throw the eyes of an english girl, nothing bad about that but a different approach to spanish food.
Regards
Comment by Nopisto 03.06.06 @ 12:53 pmSo if it’s so beloved and not cheap why was it a third of the price of Turbot at a great Seafood restaurant near San Sebastian?
Comment by andrew 03.06.06 @ 1:09 pmIts interesting but Hake does seem to be a beloved fish in Spain judging by its consumption relative to the rest of the world.
The Hake Market Report for Feb 06* clearly shows consumption in Spain is highest, accounting for 98% of total sales of Whole Chilean Hake.
Probably need someone Spanish to explain why….
*http://www.globefish.org/index.php?id=2735
Comment by Damo 03.06.06 @ 2:15 pmI love regional food and the tradition of it, however in haute cuisine I’m not sure using an ingredient just because it is local and tradional is a good thing. The english love Heinz Baked Beans but you’d be a bit dissapointed if you found any on your plate at Gordon Ramseys.
Comment by andrew 03.06.06 @ 2:37 pmYeah, thats why I said you’d need someone Spanish to explain why they use it….
Comment by Damo 03.06.06 @ 2:40 pmSo if it’s so beloved and not cheap why was it a third of the price of Turbot at a great Seafood restaurant near San Sebastian?
…and the two most priced where Tourbot and Red snapper(Besugo), isn’t it?
So what? does it mean that the third priced is worst or less apreciated?
Because of the ratio shortage/demand. Cantabric wild tourbot is getting rarer and I do prefer it over hake, but this is not the point. You can ike it or not and you will be right because it is your taste.
But dismissing a fish (or a food) because you don’t like it is not knowing or understanding it.
I don’t want to enter in a discussion, but I wanted to not that the statement of hake being a cheap or second category fish was false.
Cantabric line caught hake is not comparable with south american hakes, and the same could be said for baby squids and other fishes. All of them served at the top notch donostian restaurants like Arzak or Berasategui. And if you read Rick Stain’s book you will see that spaniards are not the only ones sharing this opinions.
cheers
Comment by Nopisto 03.06.06 @ 3:52 pmI was actually pointing out that gastrochick is correct in saying hake is a cheap fish if we define cheap in the normal way as inexpensive. I didn’t realise there were 2 different types of Hake though it doesn’t suprise me, so many fish are very loosely named, thanks for pointing that out. If the Cantabric line caught hake is better than the south american type then this is a further black mark on Adoni as he manages to make it the most bland flavourless fish I have ever tasted.
Comment by andrew 03.06.06 @ 4:42 pmIf Aduriz fails to cook it is another subject (that doesn’t surprise me).
Hake (like baby eels) has a very mild taste and it’s main atractive is the texture, close to codfish but softer and tender.
Comment by Nopisto 03.06.06 @ 5:30 pmI love those baby eels, now theres something thats not cheap eh!
Comment by andrew 03.06.06 @ 5:35 pmThanks for the great posts on San Sebastian - I’m hoping to visit there soon (by motorbike, hopefully!)
Comment by keiko 03.07.06 @ 12:05 pmI love Mugaritz although I know a number of people who didn’t enjoy their meals there. For my money he is going to become the best chef in the world within the next ten years. When I was at L’Astrance in January, Pascal Barbot was raving about the restaurant. When is the last time you heard a French chef raving about a Spanish chef?
Comment by Steve Plotnicki 03.12.06 @ 12:53 pmHi Steve
Thanks for your comments. I recently read your review on your forum -opinionated.com. Whilst I think Adoni has the makings of a great chef I think he still has a long way to go. I concur that when a dish works it is amazing i.e.the foie gras. However there are to many low points in the meal notably the fish courses. The herbal infusions to me are also a little dull. Hopefully one day I will return to this restaurant as I am very interested to see how it evolves.
Hurricane irene satellite image….
Hurricane irene satellite image….
Trackback by Hurricane irene satellite image. 09.03.11 @ 9:40 pmFree game downloads….
Free music downloads. Free mp3 downloads. Free pc game downloads. Free porn movie downloads….
Trackback by Free movie downloads. 09.05.11 @ 9:59 pmHurricane irene 2011 track….
Hurricane irene 2011 track….
Trackback by Hurricane irene 2011 track. 09.07.11 @ 9:36 pmFully clothed pissing….
Pissing fully clothed wet. Pissing wet nylons fully clothed. Fully clothed pissing. Pissing fully clothed….
Trackback by Fully clothed pissing. 09.08.11 @ 9:08 pmPublic sex….
Public sex. Public sex videos. Spring break public sex….
Trackback by Public sex movie. 10.27.11 @ 5:52 amPublic sex….
Public sex. Public places sex thumbnails….
Trackback by Public sex. 10.27.11 @ 12:38 pmPublic porn….
Free public porn movies. Drunk public porn. Public porn….
Trackback by Action in public porn. 10.27.11 @ 11:10 pmPublic sex caught on tape….
Public sex. Sex in public places porn. Sex in public. Teen sex in public. Public sex galleries. Dru sjodin national sex offender public registry. Sex education classes in nyc public schools….
Trackback by Public sex. 10.29.11 @ 1:39 amPublic sex….
Public sex. Public sex caught on tape….
Trackback by Public sex clips. 10.29.11 @ 9:15 amSynthroid….
Synthroid side effects. Desiccated thyroid verses synthroid….
Trackback by Recommended dosage synthroid. 11.06.11 @ 1:52 pmLow thyroid function and medication synthroid….
Synthroid alcohol. Synthroid. Synthroid side effects. Synthroid toxicity….
Trackback by Synthroid side effects. 11.09.11 @ 6:09 pmLinks……
[…]Sites of interest we have a link to[…]………
Trackback by White Bean Chicken Chili Recipe 12.08.11 @ 1:16 pmMediafire Release Blog…
[…]Food Blog - GastroChick[…]…
Trackback by Mediafire Release Blog 12.09.11 @ 11:09 amMegaupload Downloads…
[…]Food Blog - GastroChick[…]…
Trackback by Megaupload Downloads 12.09.11 @ 5:58 pmYou should check this out…
[…] Wonderful story, reckoned we could combine a few unrelated data, nevertheless really worth taking a look, whoa did one learn about Mid East has got more problerms as well […]……
Trackback by nyc comedy club 12.11.11 @ 7:22 amRelated………
[… ]just beneath, are numerous totally possibly not related sites to our bait, however, they are absolutely worth going over[… ]………
Trackback by Spinach Stuffed Chicken 12.12.11 @ 3:25 amReview…
It’s really a cool and helpful piece of info. I am happy that you simply shared this helpful info with us. Please stay us informed like this. Thanks for sharing….
Trackback by teenporn 01.12.12 @ 6:23 pmReviewer…
Hi There!, I’ve gone ahead and bookmarked your page on Facebook so my friends can see it too. I simply used your blog title as the title in my bookmark, as I figured if it is good enough for you to title your blog post that, then you probably would l…
Trackback by keezmovie 01.14.12 @ 11:21 amSites You Should Check Out…
http://www.lifereader.com/psychics/clairvoyant_phone_readings…
Trackback by clairvoyants 01.18.12 @ 1:09 amBored at work…
I like to browse around the internet, often I will go to Digg and read and check stuff out…
Trackback by bmw new car warranty terms 01.21.12 @ 8:54 am[…]Sites of interest we have a link to[…]……
[…]usually posts some very interesting stuff like this. If you’re new to this site[…]……
Trackback by Outback Steakhouse Coupons 01.24.12 @ 4:20 pmSites You Should Check Out…
http://www.proactivetelecom.getlisted.co.nz/nz-telephone-directory…
Trackback by lotus tarot 01.24.12 @ 6:03 pm… [Trackback] …
[…] Read More here: gastrochick.com/food-in-spain/mugaritz […] …
Trackback by URL 01.31.12 @ 8:31 pmGarmin 1490t…
[…]below you’ll find the link to some sites that we think you should visit[…]…
Trackback by Garmin 1490t Information Resource 02.03.12 @ 4:19 amGreat Clips Coupons…
[…]right here are a handful of url links to internet websites which we connect to for the fact we believe these are definitely worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Great Clips Coupons Virginia 02.03.12 @ 12:28 pmBarátno Kereso…
[…]we like to honor other sites on the web, even if they aren’t related to us, by linking to them. Below are some sites worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Barátokat Keresek 02.03.12 @ 2:31 pmSiesta Key Vacations …
[…]just underneath, are a list of totally unrelated web sites to ours, however, they are definitely worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Siesta Key Vacation Rentals 02.03.12 @ 9:40 pmTrey Millis…
Really enjoyed this blog post.Really looking forward to read more. Fantastic….
Trackback by Trey Millis 02.03.12 @ 10:27 pmGreat Clips Coupons…
[…]listed here are a few urls to online sites we link to because we believe these are really worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Haircut Coupons 02.03.12 @ 10:47 pmJust Browsing…
While I was browsing today I noticed a great article concerning…
Trackback by 3 Day Diet Menu 02.04.12 @ 2:41 amSiesta Key Vacations …
[…]just underneath, are some totally unrelated pages to ours, however, they are definitely worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Siesta Key Condo Rentals 02.04.12 @ 10:07 amVisitor recommendations…
[…]one of our visitors recently recommended the following website[…]……
Trackback by bed 02.05.12 @ 12:16 pmYahoo results…
While browsing Yahoo I found this page in the results and I didn’t think it fit…
Trackback by Nutrition science jobs 02.06.12 @ 12:10 amWebsites we think you should visit…
[…]although websites we backlink to below are considerably not related to ours, we feel they are actually worth a go through, so have a look[…]……
Trackback by SEO MURAH 02.06.12 @ 3:20 amTumblr article…
I saw someone writing about this on Tumblr and it linked to…
Trackback by robot vacuum cleaner 02.06.12 @ 3:35 amJust Browsing…
While I was surfing today I saw a great post about…
Trackback by chino hills boot camp 02.06.12 @ 4:54 amIts hard to find good help…
I am regularly proclaiming that its hard to get quality help, but here is …
Trackback by chino hills boot camp 02.06.12 @ 6:54 amNews info…
I was reading the news and I saw this really interesting info…
Trackback by promotional golf gifts 02.06.12 @ 12:54 pmSites we Like……
[…] Every once in a while we choose blogs that we read. Listed below are the recent sites that we recommend […]……
Trackback by Scarlett Johansson Bra Size 02.06.12 @ 5:10 pmFind Scholarships and grants pertaining to MinoritiesMedical site…
[…]following are generally a number of hyper-links for you to internet sites It’s my job to hook up with since many of us feel they’re value browsing[… ]…
Trackback by Amerigel wound dressing 02.06.12 @ 8:35 pmPersonal Blog…
[…]below you’ll find the link to some sites that we think you should visit[…]…
Trackback by http://tamahuret1410.sushibarsages.net 02.06.12 @ 11:34 pmEnergia tanúsítvány…
[…]just below, are some totally unrelated sites to ours, however, they are definitely worth checking out[…]…
Trackback by Energetikai tanúsítvány 02.07.12 @ 7:58 amDigg…
While checking out DIGG yesterday I noticed this…
Trackback by film projection screen 02.07.12 @ 9:32 amLooking around…
I like to surf in various places on the internet, often I will go to Stumble Upon and follow thru…
Trackback by bridge of light 02.07.12 @ 9:55 amBlogs ou should be reading…
[…]Here is a Great Blog You Might Find Interesting that we Encourage You[…]……
Trackback by advertising photography 02.07.12 @ 1:44 pmLooking around…
I like to look around the internet, often I will just go to Digg and follow thru…
Trackback by One Arm Concentration Curls 02.07.12 @ 2:16 pmYahoo results…
While browsing Yahoo I discovered this page in the results and I didn’t think it fit…
Trackback by mobile ticket app 02.07.12 @ 7:40 pmOnline Article……
[…]The information mentioned in the article are some of the best available […]……
Trackback by life insurance 02.08.12 @ 8:27 amResveratrol…
[…]Resveratrol supplement is actually a poly - phenolic compound found in many meals for example grapes[…]…
Trackback by Resveratrol 02.08.12 @ 2:20 pmLooking around…
I like to look around the online world, often I will just go to Stumble Upon and read and check stuff out…
Trackback by Electronic cigarettes 02.08.12 @ 6:56 pmInformative and precise…
Its hard to find informative and precise information but here I noted…
Trackback by electric cigarette 02.08.12 @ 6:58 pmOnline Article……
[…]The information mentioned in the article are some of the best available […]……
Trackback by zen cart templates 02.08.12 @ 10:26 pmLooking around…
I like to browse around the internet, often I will go to Digg and follow thru…
Trackback by University of Pennsylvania 02.09.12 @ 4:19 amLinks…
[…]Sites of interest we have a link to[…]……
Trackback by El Paso DWI attorney 02.09.12 @ 8:52 amDreary Day…
It was a dreary day here yesterday, so I just took to piddeling around online and realized…
Trackback by Joel Mackey 02.09.12 @ 9:36 amTumblr article…
I saw a writer talking about this on Tumblr and it linked to…
Trackback by electric cigarette 02.09.12 @ 10:20 amBlogs ou should be reading…
[…]Here is a Great Blog You Might Find Interesting that we Encourage You[…]……
Trackback by best restaurants websites 02.09.12 @ 12:25 pmLooking around…
I like to browse in various places on the online world, regularly I will just go to Stumble Upon and read and check stuff out…
Trackback by auto insurance 02.09.12 @ 2:23 pmLatest Iphone news from all around the world, you need to see this !…
[…]blow are some sites that we think it will be helpful and fun to read[…]…
Trackback by 鈭??嗉頃 02.09.12 @ 3:04 pmLooking around…
I like to browse in various places on the internet, often I will just go to Digg and read and check stuff out…
Trackback by Geld im Internet verdienen 02.09.12 @ 3:40 pmInformative and precise…
Its hard to find informative and precise information but here I noted…
Trackback by Im Internet Geld verdienen 02.09.12 @ 4:16 pmInformative and precise…
Its difficult to find informative and accurate info but here I noted…
Trackback by being single on valentines day 02.09.12 @ 4:22 pmDreary Day…
It was a dreary day here today, so I just took to piddeling around on the internet and found…
Trackback by Online Geld verdienen 02.09.12 @ 4:29 pmYahoo results…
While searching Yahoo I found this page in the results and I didn’t think it fit…
Trackback by online business 02.09.12 @ 6:14 pmLooking around…
I like to browse in various places on the web, often I will go to Digg and read and check stuff out…
Trackback by norwich escorts 02.09.12 @ 7:54 pmAwesome website…
[…]the time to read or visit the content or sites we have linked to below the[…]……
Trackback by vps hosting 02.09.12 @ 8:53 pmVisitor recommendations…
[…]one of our visitors recently recommended the following website[…]……
Trackback by wedding checklist 02.09.12 @ 8:54 pmWebsites worth visiting…
[…]here are some links to sites that we link to because we think they are worth visiting[…]……
Trackback by life coaching certification 02.09.12 @ 9:02 pmRecommeneded websites…
[…]Here are some of the sites we recommend for our visitors[…]……
Trackback by alexa traffic increase 02.09.12 @ 9:48 pmVisitor recommendations…
[…]one of our visitors recently recommended the following website[…]……
Trackback by seo link monster review 02.09.12 @ 9:48 pmRead was interesting, stay in touch……
[…]please visit the sites we follow, including this one, as it represents our picks from the web[…]……
Trackback by Chattanooga parking 02.09.12 @ 9:59 pmAwesome website…
[…]the time to read or visit the content or sites we have linked to below the[…]……
Trackback by mark quinones 02.09.12 @ 10:04 pmGreat website…
[…]we like to honor many other internet sites on the web, even if they aren’t linked to us, by linking to them. Under are some webpages worth checking out[…]……
Trackback by Dukan Diet Attack Phase Recipes 02.09.12 @ 10:26 pmLeave a comment
Line and paragraph breaks automatic, e-mail address never displayed, HTML allowed:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>
Great review. There’s definately a place for people like Adoni who push boundaries and create challenges with food - but like anyone who pushes boundaries however, sometimes they miss. For every 100 misses though there’s probably 1 great innovation or idea that will filter down and become part of Basque, Spanish or World cooking for years to come.
Comment by Damo 03.05.06 @ 9:03 amWhat is interesting with people like this is that you get the inevitable staunch defenders who champion and defend them at all costs - never acknowledging the misses - For no other reason than they think they should. Good to see you were able to say some dishes fell short.